The range

Which grade?

Coarse is the working salt. It is damp, it clumps, and the crystals are irregular, which makes it awkward on the table and ideal everywhere else — brines, pasta water, a roasting tray, a crust on fish, or a grinder. Because it holds roughly 13 per cent water it dissolves more slowly than dry salt, so taste late rather than salting to a recipe's number.

Fine is the same salt dried and stone milled. It dissolves readily, measures consistently and behaves itself in baking, where an undissolved crystal of coarse salt will sit in the crumb. This is the one for the table.

Pre-dried coarse exists for people the dampness has already annoyed. It is dried at low temperature so it runs more freely while keeping the coarse grain. It is not a different salt, and it is not drier because anything was added — there is no anti-caking agent in any of these.

The ceramic grinder is supplied empty, and the reason to prefer ceramic is unglamorous: damp sea salt corrodes a steel mechanism. Fill it with the coarse or the pre-dried coarse.

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